On a hot, windy, dusty day in September, 1893, more than 100,000 sturdy pioneers fought to stake a claim in Oklahoma's final land run-the Cherokee Strip. New land owners planned to grow crops, but the red dirt held greater treasure. Beneath the prairie grass lay an untapped supply of oil that would become their future.
By the 1920s, Ponca City was home to the kind of culture and wealth not usually seen on the frontier. The homes and public buildings built during that time are today's tourist draws, and the foundation for many of those buildings can be traced back to one man: E.W. Marland.
Originally a lawyer, Marland developed an interest in geology and had some success prospecting for oil in West Virginia, but by the time he came to Oklahoma in 1908 he was broke. Thankfully, his troubles were short-lived. By the 1920s, he controlled one tenth of the world's oil and employed one third of Ponca City's population. He went on to serve in Congress and later as Oklahoma's tenth governor.
Marland Mansion
It's easy to imagine how someone of Marland's standing could consider himself as royalty, and it wasn't long before he began construction of his own castle, complete with a modified moat.
The Marland Mansion was completed in 1928 with 55 rooms and over 43,000 square feet of opulence. The mansion's grounds originally contained a polo field, golf course, and five lakes (Marland's version of a moat). Tremendous attention to detail is seen throughout the huge home as Marland opted for Waterford crystal chandeliers, carved wood paneling from royal forests in England, and intricate ceilings in nearly every major room. Today the mansion is owned by the city and enjoyed by tourists.
Marland's Grand Home
Before building the mansion, Marland built another home on Ponca City's Grand Avenue. The Grand Home, also the location of Marland's first oil well, is now a museum. It's largely dedicated to a display of memorabilia from the 101 Ranch, home to a Wild West show that employed Will Rogers and Bill Pickett.
The Pioneer Woman
Marland's Ponca City fame doesn't end with his houses. The Pioneer Woman Statue, one of Oklahoma's best-known landmarks, was commissioned by Marland in 1926 to honor and preserve the memory of pioneer women who settled the state. The statue might not captivate your little ones for long, but the Pioneer Woman Museum next door offers a number of interesting exhibits and craft classes throughout the summer.
Off the Oil Path (sort of)
If mansions and statues are too stuffy for your crowd, Ponca City offers a number of ways to get your feet wet once summer is in full swing. Both Kaw Lake and Lake Ponca are nearby, but a more interesting destination might be the Lew Wentz Camp and Pool just east of town. This is no common public pool. It was built (again, with oil money) in the 1920s and is still in operation today. Its elaborate towers and diving platforms make it, and the connected park, a real attraction.
For a more balanced view of the area's history, step outside the glare of the oil-money mansions and visit the Standing Bear Native American Memorial Park. Ponca City Tourism Coordinator MaryBeth Moore calls the park “an awesome education tool,” thanks to the employment of ten listening stations that tell the story of Chief Standing Bear and the area's five tribes in the voices of real tribal members.
Oil may be the area's original paydirt, but the folks at Head Country Food Products (888-762-1227, HeadCountry.com) are putting their stock in a different kind of bubbling brew-barbeque sauce. If you want to see where one of Oklahoma's most popular home-grown products is made, call their office. Though there are no regularly scheduled tours, you might be lucky enough to be shown around the place. If you prefer eat the sauce rather than look at it, the Head Country Bar-B-Q Restaurant (580-767-8304) is happy to oblige.
Ponca City, just 100 miles north of the Metro, is a fun reminder that Oklahoma's history wasn't all Dust Bowls and cowboys. In fact, after seeing how the other half lived in the heyday of oil, you might find it difficult to return home.
Where the Fun is: Ponca City
Marland Estate Mansion
901 Monument Rd
800-422-8340
MarlandMansion.com
Open daily, 10am-5pm; Sunday, 1pm-5pm
Marland's Grand Home
1000 E Grand
580-767-0427
www.MarlandGrandHome.com
Open Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-5pm;
Sunday, 1pm-5pm during summer months
Lew Wentz Camp & Pool
2928 LA Cann Drive
580-767-0430
www.PoncaCity.com/Attractions/Wentz.htm
Standing Bear Statue and Standing Bear Native American Memorial Park
Northwest corner of Highways 60 and 177
580-762-1514
www.PoncaCity.com/Attractions/Standing_Bear_Statue.htm
Open daily, 6am-11pm;
office hours Monday-Friday, 8am-4pm
Pioneer Woman Statue & Museum
14th Street (Highway 177) and Lake Road
580-765-6108
www.PioneerWomanMuseum.com
Open Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm;
Sunday, 1pm-5pm (closed Mondays and State holidays)
Chelsey Simpson is an editor who lives in Edmond with her husband and her miniature schnauzer, Ellie.
Posted on Friday, April 20, 2007
by Exploring OK
filed under